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This page is all about the boats . . . not people
(so don't look for pictures of us here!)
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English Harbour, Freemans Bay
(southern most anchorage); overlooking Fort
Berkeley
Used to careen (pull over on side) ships in 1700's to work on
bottom
Falmouth Harbour: "empty" during races; marinas only
partially visible
Star Wars-ish platinum Syl; lines and most
winches are concealed below deck; did not race
Why bother with a dinghy... |
ANTIGUA - APRIL 10, 2004: We
arrived in English Harbour around 9 a.m. after our night passage and anchored in the same
area we had previously when we visited
last December/January. We had not expected to still be in the
northern Leeward islands, but since we were, we decided we couldn't pass up
the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta and the renowned
Antigua Sailing Week, happening the last 2 weeks of April. We met 2
new cruising couples upon arriving and were invited to Easter dinner
onboard. After spending several days in English Harbour, we
moved ARGO over to Falmouth Harbour, which is a much larger, although
not quite as scenic, harbor. This is where most of the classic and race boats are
kept. We anchored just at the edge of the channel, so we have a front
row seat for watching all the boats come in and out each day. It is
less than a 10 minute walk between the two harbors and regatta/race
activities are located at both, with lots of restaurants and bars in
between. We also walk the docks at the four marinas frequently, getting a very up close
look at all these beautiful - and BIG - sailboats. Unlike St. Maarten,
only a few mega-motoryachts here. We have also met up
with old cruising friends, and met many more, most who are also heading
south. A good meeting spot on the dock for racers and cruisers is the
Skullduggery bar which serves up the popular Espresso Martini during happy hour
(one shot each of espresso, Tia Maria, Cream de Cocoa, Stoli vodka, shake
with ice, strain into martini glass).
The big
serious classic/racing sailboats all have a "mother ship", or support yacht.
They travel together and are usually docked next to each other.
(Examples of race boats and their "mother ship" are Ranger &
Georgia, Velsheda & Bystander (pictured at right), Chippewa &
Arabella, Mari-Cha IV & Mari-Cha III).)
These support yachts are usually luxury mega-sailboats and are used to house
and feed the crew, which typically may be 25 or more people. It is cheaper for
the owner of the race boat to own a second boat for this purpose, than it is
for him to pay for lodging and restaurants ashore. These boats
typically have a skeleton crew that stays with the boat full time. The
owner flies in qualified racing crew from all over. The racing talent
here is significant, many coming from America's Cup crews, etc. The
majority of race boats here are UK and USA flagged, although the racers are
also German, French, Italian, Canadian, Spanish and Swiss.
Whereas the Heineken Regatta was "it's all about the beer"
(the Heineken motto),
here it's all about the free/cheap rum, t-shirts and coveted red caps. The
limited number of red baseball caps cannot be bought - the only way to get
one was to attend the kick-off beach party and have a ticket (which takes
some resourcefulness), but we did manage to get our caps. It is said
that the Antigua Sailing Week caps go for $200 - $250 on Ebay. There are
regatta/race related parties almost every afternoon or evening, some on the
various beaches. We were also invited to the Tot Club for our
initiation. Back in the old days, British sailors were given a ration
of rum each day. When it was discontinued, they rebelled and this
tradition was born. Everyday at 6:00 p.m., members stand in a circle,
a toast is made to the Queen and then a "tot" of rum (Pussers) is consumed
straight away. And so we did.
Most of the races started just outside of Falmouth Harbour
over a 2 or 3 hour period. With binoculars, VHF and cooler, we hiked
up the hills to different spots, finding early on our favorite vantage
point, near the water's edge under a shade tree, usually right in
front of a start line. The boats would parade past us coming out and
"warm up" just in front of us, and we could hear the winches grinding away.
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Watching the mega race |
Antigua Mega Yacht Challenge for sailing yachts over
100 ft. took place the first week, consisting of 3 races. Quite
impressive seeing all these huge sailboats, as we hiked up above the fort in English Harbour
to view. Yes, many of the sailboats that compete in the Classic Yacht
and Sailing Week races are also over
100 ft. |
Visione, Morning Glory's mother ship,
raced in Mega-Yacht Challenge (specks on deck are people) |
Tall ships racing
Tree of Life (ctr) needed lots of wind to move it's
massive wooden hull
Some oldies but goodies
Old classic Camin, Race Committee boat |
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Wooden spars |
Big |
Wooden spars |
Old Hinckley |
Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (www.antiguaclassics.com) is
not only for the genuine classic boats built years ago, but also for the
more modern vessels built in the traditional spirit with the classic lines, and for the traditional workboats
of the past that are now sailing as yachts. It was difficult telling
the difference between the older and newer yachts. Either way, they
were very impressive. There were three classic J-boats, one of which
was built in 1928, Cambria (K4), the famous Ranger (J5) (replica) and
Velsheda (J/K7). There were several tall
ships that graced the race course for the initial race. There were
also many other authentic classics, some dating almost 100 years old and in
immaculate condition (at least on the outside). There were 58 boats
participating for the 3 days of racing, with the three J-boats doing an
additional race of their own.
Racing conditions started off with light winds on the
first day, but picked up for the rest of the series. The race series
ended with a parade of boats through historic English Harbour, a very
fitting finale for the Classic Yacht Regatta.
Ranger,
classic J-boat (replica), original scuttled after war, supposedly
only surviving part being the transom which is serving as a bar in
somebody's house. |
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Sleek |
Smiley face painted on bottom |
Georgia, Ranger's
mother ship |
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Dozens of dorades ... |
Dual controls, computer screens built in
below |
Coffee-grinders out of view |
 
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Classic J-boats:
J-boats Velsheda (L) and Ranger (R);
(Windrose (C))
Cambria (1928), pretty "little"
J- boat
L-R: Windrose, Velsheda,
Ranger, Cambria
Windrose
(not a J)
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Morning Glory, 1st place
Pyewacket, owned by Roy Disney |
Antigua Sailing Week (www.sailingweek.com) is the
most popular of all races in the Caribbean, attracting several hundred boats
for the 5-day race series. Racers tend to be a bit more serious than
the Classic racers. There are 19 race classes including six
classes for bareboats (charter boats). The most impressive class
includes the high-tech boats (sorry, I don't have any close-ups of them) Morning Glory (German) and Pyewacket
(USA) with the canting
keels that we saw at the Heineken Regatta in St. Maarten; and the new
Mari-Chi IV, a sleek 140' (20' draft, 32' beam, 146' schooner masts height)
which is the fastest monohull in the world, crossing the Atlantic in a
record setting 6 days last year. Mari-Cha IV came back in one
day with a chunk missing off the bottom of their plumb bow - must have been an
exciting start! We have seen broken masts, booms, fiberglass, fingers
and legs - just more reasons not to race! Deborah was at the hospital
giving her rare-type blood at two in the morning for a racer seriously
injured (interestingly, Antiguans don't have certain blood types so their
blood bank was of no use in this case).
The dual between Morning Glory and
Pyewacket continued here, with Morning Glory coming in 1st
in class and in fleet. Mari-Cha IV didn't do too well, probably
because it's strength is in longer stretches, whereas these race courses
consisted of a lot of tacking/jibing. (It did win the
Guadeloupe-to-Antigua race earlier this week setting a record.) Our
cruiser-friend-turned-racer, Jeff & Wendy on Yocahu, a Swan 48'
sporting 2 new hi-tech sails, did quite well coming in 1st several days.
In spite of not finishing one of the races due to a crew injury, they still
managed to finish 5th in class. Jeff was still excited knowing that he
probably could have come in first. He's now talking about doing the
race circuit in the Mediterranean this summer.
There must be about 90 bareboats racing here. It is
a scary sight seeing all these charter boats - I can say that now since
we're cruisers - whether they're racing or anchoring next to us. It's
even scarier when they're flying a French flag. That aside, we have
thought how this Sailing Week would make for a great T.A.S.S. charter trip.
Most of the charter boats are from Sunsail (brought in from their many
Caribbean bases) and some from the Moorings, and people from a variety of
nationalities. The bareboats have a special Bareboat Challenge
race of their own on the last day, taking the top three finishers from each
class.
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Mari-Cha IV; patch over race damage visible lower
bow
Mari-Cha IV, with it's 2 masts, dwarfs other
turbo-sleds including Pyewacket & Morning Glory
Class of bareboats racing |
The Sailing Week ended up with a big
night of partying (we started it off with the Tot Club toast) and ended up
at a huge dock party hosted by Chippewa and it's mother ship Arabella. The dock in between the
two boats had sizeable blow-up swimming pools full of iced-down beer and
huge fishing coolers full of rum punch, and big speakers on Arabella's deck.
Even though Chippewa did finish 1st in class and took some other
honors, this is apparently an annual event for them. The following
night was a gigantic local event, with a carnival atmosphere of games,
marching police in formation, parking lot full of vendor BBQs and other food
and drink, and they were still going strong at 4:00 in the morning (as we
could hear all too well from bed). The next day race and support boats
started leaving, heading off to the next race, Virgin Islands, we think.
As the big boats leave the dock, they each sound their loud bass horns,
and the others respond in kind repeatedly creating a huge symphonic farewell
accolade that goes on for minutes. Cruisers are also starting to
head out, too (but we don't get the big-horn fanfare), and Antigua will then
be left to the locals until after hurricane season.
In between race
weeks, Deborah has kept busy with filing an
amended tax return, catching
up on a whopping 80 hours
of CPE
for her CPA license, and going through a thousand digital pictures - that's
the good thing/bad thing about digital cameras - for website
update (usually takes her 3
"work" days for each update, this time 4 days). See, cruising isn't all about sitting
around drinking boat drinks all day long! Steve has read several more
books in the meantime. Thank heavens, there
have been no new boat projects to do here
(I think what we did in St. Maarten should last us a year!). Although
we have immensely enjoyed the regattas and socializing with cruisers, racers
and locals here and in St. Maarten over the past 4 months, we are ready to
move south to Guadeloupe and beyond. We are looking forward to finding some nice quiet anchorages where we can get away from it
all for a while and give our livers a well-deserved rest! I
think it's time we start studying our French again . . . .
. . . . . as we sail to
Guadeloupe . . .
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